THE MASCULINE BEAUTY FRONTIER by Alexandra Cody

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If you were asked to describe your typical luxury beauty customer, your first answer probably wouldn’t start with ‘male, 16-24’. But in Mintel’s UK Prestige Beauty Trend Report (December 2016), it is reported that 31% of men aged 16-24 spent more on “prestige” or luxury brands per month, while 41% of men often buy these luxury products on impulse. As the prestige beauty market has grown 6% in size between 2014 and 2015 to over £2 billion, this presents a massive product opportunity for luxury brands in targeting younger millennial men.

While some female-focused companies are already offering ‘for men’ beauty products, often the range is very limited or unoriginal, and are in danger of losing out to their competitors. Simply adding ‘for men’ to a product and repackaging the product in masculine tones isn’t enough to stand out from the competition. Clarins, Lancôme, Givenchy, Burberry, and Clinique are all examples of companies that have expanded their offering to men, often adding a ‘for men’ twist to products they already offer or extending off of a male fragrance extension.

Burberry’s male beauty range based on their Mr. Burberry cologne includes a beard oil, facial moisturizer, and deodorant (Source: It's a Man's Class)

Burberry’s male beauty range based on their Mr. Burberry cologne includes a beard oil, facial moisturizer, and deodorant (Source: It's a Man's Class)

So what’s the winning formula? An authentic story and product with a sense of masculinity written into the brand DNA sets companies apart from their competition. Offering a complete range that encompasses many different concerns (i.e. anti-aging, fragrance, washing, or moisturizing) is also helpful for creating brand loyalty and repeat purchase. Companies that are getting it terrifically right include Kiehl’s, Aesop, Aqua di Parma, and Tom Ford. They have a unisex appeal that sets itself up perfectly for a masculine counterpart that doesn’t feel like an afterthought.

Aesop’s simple, modern product design and retailing appeals to a unisex customer (Source: Aesop)

Aesop’s simple, modern product design and retailing appeals to a unisex customer (Source: Aesop)

So what’s next for luxury men’s beauty? Simply rebranding women’s products with a ‘for men’ won’t be enough for the future of male beauty. Existing luxury brands with unisex branding will have an easier task, able to create an authentic story to extend their product offering into male beauty. While this may present a challenge for companies with strong female brand DNA, it isn’t an impossible task. Burberry has provided a great example of how to create a male extension for their beauty line, seamlessly creating a strong and identifiable masculine brand image. From a retail perspective, there is undoubtedly an opportunity for luxury multi-brand retailers (i.e.Harrods, Selfridge’s) to focus attention on their male clientele, aligning beauty with lifestyle trends like wellness and fitness, and to facilitate sales from the growing male ‘impulse’ purchasers.

 

References:

Mintel, Prestige Beauty: UK, December 2016

https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/intelligence/can-grooming-brands-get-low-maintenance-men-to-buy-beauty

https://www.mrporter.com/journal/maintenance/the-grooming-essentials-for-every-kind-of-trip/1959

https://uk.burberry.com/mr-burberry/

http://www.thefashionglobe.com/kiehl-skin-care

http://www.itsamansclass.com/mrburberry-fragrance/

 

INSIDE THE GREAT FRAGRANCE REVOLUTION by Alexandra Cody

(Source: Racked)

(Source: Racked)

Perfume has typically been a product that drives sales in the beauty category for luxury brands, offering an entry-level price point for customers of all income brackets to buy into the magic of the brand. As Business of Fashion reported, perfume sales have stayed strong in light of the industry downturn, ‘with global sales estimated to have risen 2.9 percent to about €15 billion last year. Within that, sales by niche brands jumped about 15 percent to around €1 billion’ (Reuters, Business of Fashion). Typically, luxury brands have outsourced their fragrances, building licenses with beauty giants like L’Oréal and Estée Lauder, and are driven by massive marketing campaigns with celebrity endorsements. This has worked well for brands in the past, however, the emergence of rising ‘indie’ (or ‘niche’) fragrance brands is disrupting the luxury fragrance market.

Le Labo was launched in 2006 as a response to the dilution of the big brand fragrances of the 1990’s, evoking the art of perfumery with their laboratory-like store design. As their founder, Edouard Roschi recounts: “What was missing then was the charming and romantic aspect of the perfumer’s work, which was overcast by marketing”. In 2014, Le Labo was acquired by Estée Lauder, who were keen to cash in on this niche trend for a brand that had gained a cult following.  

Image: Le Labo markets their stores as 'fragrance labs', where customers can experience the blending of each fragrance. (Source: Le Labo). 

Image: Le Labo markets their stores as 'fragrance labs', where customers can experience the blending of each fragrance. (Source: Le Labo)

Estée Lauder later acquired niche brand By Kilian (2016), founded in 2007 by Kilian Hennessy, the grandson of the co-founder of the LVMH group. The unique fragrance is designed to tell a ‘story through scent’, and even the packaging has been thoughtfully designed to be keepsakes. Estée Lauder has established itself as a lead player in this growing market, with a history of purchasing niche perfume brands and turning them into global luxury players (i.e. Le Labo, Jo Malone, and Frédéric Malle).

Also in 2016, Estée Lauder’s competitor L’Oréal purchased niche perfume brand Atelier Cologne, who make ‘colognes absolues: pure scents that combine citrus notes with raw materials’. Estée Lauder produces fragrances for luxury ‘mono’ brands such as Yves Saint Laurent, Armani, and Ralph Lauren who have seen a slowing down of perfume sales over the years.

These acquisitions emphasize just how strong the trend for niche brands is in the market, signaling to luxury brands that ‘one size fits all’ scents that lack an authentic story, marketing, and ingredients are no longer competitive within the luxury fragrance market.  

Image: The scents from Louis Vuitton's new fragrance range all features flowers from Grasse, France and leather from the atelier. (Source: Allure). 

Image: The scents from Louis Vuitton's new fragrance range all features flowers from Grasse, France and leather from the atelier. (Source: Allure). 

One luxury brand that has responded to this fragrance revolution is Louis Vuitton, who earlier this year announced their launch of a collection of fragrances targeting middle-income shoppers. The fragrances cost around €200-300 each, comparable to niche brands like By Kilian. The launch shows that luxury ‘mono’ brands must respond to this market disruption in an authentic way, creating a range that allows the customer to pick and choose their scent, while breaking away from the traditional marketing campaigns of the past. 

Have these indie brands truly disrupted the luxury fragrance market? Will other luxury brands follow Louis Vuitton’s lead and reinvigorate a stagnant fragrance market? 

 

References:

https://www.luxurydaily.com/by-kilian-joins-estee-lauder-companies-to-grow-business/

https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/news-analysis/big-perfume-makers-smell-threat-niche-scents

https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/creative-class/creative-class-edouard-roschi-perfumer

https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/news-analysis/louis-vuitton-targets-middle-income-shoppers-with-perfume-launch

https://www.luxurydaily.com/loreal-acquires-niche-perfumery-atelier-cologne/

https://www.nytimes.com/2016/10/03/fashion/fragrance-duty-free-retail.html

http://fashionista.com/2014/10/estee-lauder-le-labo

http://www.racked.com/2016/11/21/13669848/estee-lauder-acquisitions

HOW MANSUR GAVRIEL BROKE ALL THE RULES TO CREATE A MODERN LUXURY LABEL by Alexandra Cody

 Image: Mansur Gavriel's cult icon bucket bag (Source: Mansur Gavriel)

 Image: Mansur Gavriel's cult icon bucket bag (Source: Mansur Gavriel)

It’s only been a mere four years since Rachel Mansur and Floriana Gavriel created their eponymous accessories label, however their bags have gained ‘cult’ status with a following that includes A-list celebrities, bloggers, and fashion editors around the world. In 2014, a year after their launch, they debuted their fall collection, selling out of 95% of the collection within an hour. From there, they built scarcity by letting waiting lists grow, creating buzz and demand that fashion brands can only dream of. Four years down the road and they’re set to launch their first apparel collection at New York Fashion Week in September 2017. The secret behind their meteoric success? Breaking all the rules.

In the wake of the recent financial crisis, price is everything. Luxury consumers shifted their spending priorities towards experiences, thus leaving room in the goods industry for a major disruption. Mansur Gavriel’s ‘It’ Bag, a simple bucket style bag in a range of neutral and bold leathers (often with a bold interior pop of color), retails between $400-$1000 and goes against the ‘more is more’ philosophy of many luxury brands by being timeless and simple. “It’s the perfect combination of fashion and function,” says Jen Mankins, owner of Brooklyn boutique Bird. “It’s aspirational and accessible”(Bloomberg).

Image: Artistically designed feature from their Fall 2015 Lookbook debuting their second 'it' bag, the Lady Bag (Source: Mansur Gavriel)

Image: Artistically designed feature from their Fall 2015 Lookbook debuting their second 'it' bag, the Lady Bag (Source: Mansur Gavriel)

“Why haven’t I heard of them” you may be wondering? They keep a low profile, opting against traditional print advertising, using street posters and Instagram posts that don’t feature seasonal collections, rather an on-going feed of artfully designed inspiration. Their models aren’t ‘it’ girls either, rather ‘unique’ models with simple makeup and styling that speaks to their counter-culture vibe. They keep their retail partners extremely limited (especially their online partners), mitigating the risk of over-distribution.

 Image: Bold hues and simple silhouettes at their New York Pop Up Flagship in Soho (Source:Mansur Gavriel)

 Image: Bold hues and simple silhouettes at their New York Pop Up Flagship in Soho (Source:Mansur Gavriel)

Building off their immediate success, it would have been expected that Mansur Gavrieljump quickly into other categories, building on the momentum from handbag sales. However, they've taken their time, slowly launching a small, yet robust footwear line in 2016, and are set to show their first apparel line in 2017. Fighting against apparel collection timings, they've opted to go the “see-now-buy-now” route, launching their collection online and in-store the same time as their show. This trend has been adopted by other major luxury brands (Ralph Lauren, Burberry, Tom Ford) to address the seasonality problem, while attempting to redefine the role of the runway show in today’s economy.

With such overnight success, can this cult brand sustain their growth by expanding into apparel, or are they doomed to be a ‘one hit wonder’?

 

References

Mansur Gavriel

https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/news-analysis/6-lessons-for-building-a-winning-accessories-business

https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/bof-exclusive/mansur-gavriel-to-launch-ready-to-wear-for-autumn-2017

https://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2016-08-31/how-mansur-gavriel-beat-the-it-bag-hangover

https://www.nytimes.com/2017/02/10/t-magazine/fashion/rachel-mansur-floriana-gavriel-zhenya-tanya-posternak-new-york-fashion-week.html

https://www.nytimes.com/2017/02/07/fashion/see-now-buy-now-business-fashion-week.html

https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/intelligence/mansur-gavriel-created-first-post-recession-bag

HOW LUXURY BRANDS SHOULD TARGET MILLENNIALS by Alexandra Cody

Image: Model and Instagram Influencer Pyper America Smith for Tiffany & Co's #lovenotlike campaign (Source: Instagram)

Image: Model and Instagram Influencer Pyper America Smith for Tiffany & Co's #lovenotlike campaign (Source: Instagram)

The mythical millennial. In the U.S. alone, there are a reported 80 million people born between 1977 and 2000 making up this demanding generation, with a higher than average connection to information and a spending power of $600 billion per year. This figure is projected to grow to $1.4 trillion by 2020, and their appetite for luxury is fierce. While 75% of their spending is done primarily in store, a considerable amount of this is influenced by the brand’s offline presence. These ‘digital natives’ have grown up so attached to their technology, that there’s only a thin line between online and offline these days. They want the full brand experience at all times, both in-store and through the brand’s digital presence. With so many conflicting directions, the question on everyone’s minds is: how should luxury brands target these mythical millennials?

Social media has become a way for luxury brands to open a dialogue with their younger consumers. Brands who traditionally haven’t marketed to younger demographics are seeing the necessity in reaching out to and securing a ‘bond’ with millennials early in their development to enhance overall brand equity in the future. Marketing entry-level products (i.e. perfumes and beauty) to millennials who will aspire to purchase their own quilted mini flap bag has been the norm for years, though harnessing the power of social media is a new challenge for luxury brands. Encouraging posting through hash-tag campaigns has been a way to engage in an authentic way, such as Chanel’s launch of their new fragrance No.5 L’Eau, using Lily Rose Depp as spokesperson, harnessing their Instagram (and her account’s 2.5+ million followers) to release emotive videos and the evocative hashtag: ‘you know me and you don’t’.

Image: Lily Rose Depp speaks to a new generation of Chanel patrons (Source: DailyMail)

Image: Lily Rose Depp speaks to a new generation of Chanel patrons (Source: DailyMail)

Influencer marketing has had mixed reviews as to effectiveness, however it’s clear thatinfluencers are determining ‘which brands are sought after and which are considered to be too elitist’, says Rowan Kelshaw, managing director of The Luxury Network LA. Forbes reported in 2015 that 33% of millennials rely mostly on blogs before making a luxury purchase. A marketing shift is occurring, away from traditional ‘celebrity spokespeople’ & ‘It Girls’ towards KOL’s (key opinion leaders) and bloggers who offer a more authentic angle to sell the ‘dream logic’ of the brand.

“This new generation of consumers no longer trust traditional advertising or even traditional celebrities. They've lost faith in marketing campaigns which over glamorize, over promise, or seem like they are coming from someone who doesn't feel authentic…” says Daniel Saynt, CEO & Chief Creative Officer at Socialyte, the world’s largest influencer casting agency. Interaction with influencers gives brands a chance to create emotive, authentic content, specially curated to cut through traditional advertisements, or as Jean-Noel Kapferer put it: ‘refueling the luxury dream’. Luxury brands such as Rolex (their 2015 collaboration with Roger Federer propelled Rolex back into the social media conversation), Tiffany & Co. (their #LikeNotLove campaign featured blogger ‘royalty’ Chiara Ferragni among others), and Dolce & Gabbana have had success with teaming up with influencers to create hashtag campaigns that encourage authentic two-way communication with the brand and its consumers. Dolce& Gabbana’s 2017 Spring/Summer campaign featured a slew of millennial influencers including kids of former supermodels and Instagram famous models, actresses, and musicians. 

Image: Sonia Ben Ammar, Thylane Blondeau, Cameron Dallas, Brandon Thomas Lee, Presley Gerber, Luka Sabbat, & Rafferty Law for Dolce & Gabbana’s spring 2017 campaign (Source: Fashion Gone Rogue)

Image: Sonia Ben Ammar, Thylane Blondeau, Cameron Dallas, Brandon Thomas Lee, Presley Gerber, Luka Sabbat, & Rafferty Law for Dolce & Gabbana’s spring 2017 campaign (Source: Fashion Gone Rogue)

ARE LUXURY SHOPPERS READY FOR THE ‘STORE OF THE FUTURE’? by Alexandra Cody

Image: Design for Farfetch's Store of the Future (Source: Forbes

Image: Design for Farfetch's Store of the Future (Source: Forbes

Earlier this year, multi-brand retailer Farfetch (valued at $1.5 billion this year and reportedly expected to IPO very soon) announced their potentially ground-breaking launch of a tech-powered retail experience that merges on- and off-line experiences. A company founded with a strong omnichannel positioning, they started by connecting physical inventory to a digital database. So-called the ‘Store of the Future’, the software is designed to improve retail productivity by enhancing interaction between shoppers and sales associates.

Among its features, the software instantly recognizes when a client enters the store, tracks their browsing habits through RFID-enabled (Radio-frequency identification) clothing racks, creates product wish-lists accessed through a ‘digital mirror’, and facilitates check out through a mobile payment system. Its modular service can be tailored to suit the boutique/brand’s needs and the open-architecture of the platform means third-parties will be able to build applications and add-ons. More importantly, it allows brands to access essential client data: the potential is endless.  

Image: A virtual shopping rack recognizes the customer's preferences Farfetch's Store of the Future (Source: Getty Images) 

Image: A virtual shopping rack recognizes the customer's preferences Farfetch's Store of the Future (Source: Getty Images) 

It is reported that only 7% of luxury sales occur online, however, this figure is due to reach around 20% by 2025. This means that over the next decade, the majority of sales will occur in-store, an area largely left in the dust by digital technology over the past few years where data collection has been non-existent. Brands must redefine this space for the new multi-channel shopper.

Farfetch is not the only company looking to technology to solve the problems of the physical retail store. Luxury brands understand that they must have a fluid omnichannel experience that encourages interaction between client, product, and brand. In 2012, Burberry took the lead in retail innovation with the opening of their Regent Street flagship in London, which featured RFID-enabled clothing that triggers educational content in fitting rooms and certain mirrors, screens to display runway shows and other brand content, as well as employee-focused tech such as iPads connecting to CRM (customer relationship management) data that also act as a point-of-sale (POS) destination.

Image: Burberry uses RFID-chips in clothing that turns mirrors into interactive content, such as runway styling and education (Source: Tone.com)

Image: Burberry uses RFID-chips in clothing that turns mirrors into interactive content, such as runway styling and education (Source: Tone.com)

As Ana Andjelic of Havas Lux Hub reported on Burberry’s innovation: “Modern luxury is about conveying a lifestyle; it is about creating an overall experience that products are a part of. A strong brand narrative combined with technology, which has become a signature of the Burberry brand, gives consumers attainable, ‘no purchase necessary’ entry points into the brand experience at every point and price point”.

So, is this new digital retail innovation right for luxury brands?

In-store technology, such as the virtual reality mirrors, can be seen as ‘gimmicky’, so it would really have to be useful (a win-win for both brand and consumer) and convenient, while maintaining a high level of personalization. Mintel reports that retail technology (i.e. interactive mirrors, RFID enabled clothing, and tablet use in-store) positively affects customer experience to people of all ages, not just younger millennials. But will this hold true for luxury retail? What sets luxury brands apart is the level of personalization… can technology recreate that personal touch needed to sell the lifestyle of the brand? 

 

See more:

http://www.brandchannel.com/2017/04/13/farfetch-071417/

https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/bof-exclusive/inside-farfetchs-store-of-the-future

http://mashable.com/2012/09/24/burberry-regent-street-christopher-bailey/#j2G5T5DW8kqA

http://mashable.com/2012/09/13/burberry-regent-street-store/#j2G5T5DW8kqA

http://adage.com/article/digitalnext/luxury-brands-innovate-die-digital-age/298149/

https://www.tone.co.uk/rebranding-the-good-the-bad-the-ugly/

https://www.forbes.com/sites/rachelarthur/2017/04/12/enabling-the-offline-cookie-why-the-farfetch-store-of-the-future-is-all-about-data/#50cb6e322398

Tamara Sender, ‘Fashion: Technology and Innovation - UK - September 2016’, Mintel.